After mid-May, I check these guys in the mornings.
These episodes are common on the first year, when the shrubs have a tiny root system that cut to fit into the 1 or 3 gallon pots. Wilting episodes indicate that the plant is loosing moisture thru the leaves much faster than it can absorb water thru the roots. The drip does not do a perfect job though when temps are regularly in the 100s so I hand water sometimes when it is supposed to go 'off'. Most of mine have drip irrigation but a few get water from the regular sprinkler. When we hit the daily 100s or so, I may water using the hose at certain times too. I go down back to 1 gallon when temperatures moderate in September. I give mine 1 gallon of water in the Spring (per plant per watering) and increase that to 1.5 gallons in mid-May. Then I use either a moisture meter or the finger method to determine if I need to water them. The liquids correct iron chlorosis faster than solids but they do not last as long. Or use liquid iron-chelated compounds sold at most plant nurseries. No rocks as mulch ever.Use either garden sulfur, aluminum sulfate or greensand to acidify the soil.
Tried pine needles too but those were a slight pain so I went back to the other stuff. I use hardwood mulch or hay or organic compost in some years. The mulch does not have to be acidic as acidic mulch will not help that much. Use organic mulch 2-4' past the drip line. I see evidence of soil recently watered in the picture so I thought I would digress and tell you what I do watering wise. The shrub in the middle has some leaves that appear to have some browning. Specially if wilting is making you are water daily. you may be having to water them every 5 minutes during the day or faster o) If you have been watering a lot to maintain this look, then I would consider them stressed enough to move. I see no signs of wilted leaves, although who knows. I do not see signs of iron chlorosis (the leaves turn light green or yellow with the leaf veins remaining dark green). That browning happens when they do not get enough water for a long enough time.
Meaning they are dark green and with no signs of browning from the edges inwards. Observations: The leaves appear to be in 'ok' shape. Hydrangeas begin to suffer from wilting episodes and watering issues as temperatures top 85F and mid-May is about the time when we hit the 90s. If the plants were in obvious distress now, I would transfer them into pots, keep them in pots until they go dormant in December and then plant them somewhere where they get less sun.The reason? I never plant or transplant anything here after mid May. If I have a windy location, I look for an alternative location before planting them there. Light summer winds can make those large leaves loose moisture slowly and steadily in the summer. A few hours of early morning sun does not impact bloomage much.
#Quickfire hydrangeas full#
I even have few in full but bright shade. I aim for shade starting at 11am, as best as I can though. It is too strong, makes you water a lot and the temps get too hot for these guys. The further you stay away from direct 12pm sun, the better. Sunlight: I would aim for sun in the morning hours only shade in the afternoon and in the evening hours. You did not say if these were planted this year or are well established, if there are watering or wilting issues so, I am assuming they are new shrubs.
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